Terengganu - Malaysia

Terengganu is one of the three east coast states on Peninsular Malaysia. It has a land area of 12,995 square kilometres and 225 kilometres of picturesque coastline. Kuala Terengganu, its capital, stands on the bank of the Terengganu river.

HISTORY

The present Sultanate of Terengganu had its origins in 1726. Sultan Zainal Abidin I, from the family of the Pahang Bendahara, was the first ruler. His successor, Mansur Syah, played a vital role in checking the influence of Bugis outsiders in the region.

In the subsequent years, the Siamese started to impose its sovereignty over Terengganu with the Sultans sending tributes ( in the form of bunga emas) to Siam until 1909. In July 1909, the Anglo-Thai Treaty of Bangkok saw the British wielding its power over Terengganu. However, Sultan Zainal Abidin III rejected this treaty; a friendship treaty was later ratified and this paved the way for the appointment of an agent of the British Consul-General. Terengganu was finally persuaded to accept a British adviser, J.L. Humphreys, in 1919.

The Japanese Occupation (1941-1945) resulted in Terengganu being handed back to Siam. In September 1945, Terengganu was placed under the British Military Administration.

In 1945, together with Penang and Malacca, and 9 other Malay states, Terengganu joined the Malayan Union. In 1948, it joined the Federation of Malaya, which later achieved independence on 31st August 1957.

Flag	Emblem
The white background denotes the Ruler and the black field represents the people; the white surrounding the black signifies the protection of the Ruler over his subjects. The crescent and the star represent Islam, the State religion.	The crescent and the star at the top represent Islam. The crown denotes the Ruler's sovereignty. The sword, long keris and mace are symbols of the State's authority. The book on the right symbolises the Holy Quran and the book on the left the kitab. The kain dukung denotes Malay royalty.

TOWNS AND CITIES

Kuala Terengganu

Kuala Terengganu is the state capital of Terengganu. Besides being the administration centre, Kuala Terengganu offers attractions such as the State Museum, Semai Silk Centre, Bukit Puteri, Maziah Palace and Payang Market.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Kuala Terengganu - Chinatown

As it has always been a place of unique historical and cultural character, it is no wonder that Kuala Terengganu's Kampung Cina (Chinatown) is now regarded as a heritage attraction for both local and foreign tourists. Sprouting from joint restoration and preservation efforts between the Terengganu State Government, the Kuala Terengganu Municipal Council and three Chinese associations (Terengganu Chinese Assembly Hall, Terengganu Chinese Chamber of Commerce & Industry, and Terengganu Hainan Association), Chinatown has been given a boost for tourism in the region.

As history goes in the Chinese records, Terengganu, Kelantan and Pahang were vassal states of Sri Vijaya, a powerful kingdom from the 7th to 14th centuries. Sri Vijaya maintained a close relationship with China and tribute missions were sent by Sri Vijaya to China between 906 and 1178 A.D. The descendants of Chinese sojourners and settlers - whose origins are traceable to that period - are still found at the trading ports and coastal settlements of Terengganu, including that of Kuala Terengganu.

Various Chinese records and annals - dated as far back as the 12th century - have referred to the ports of Terengganu. Javanese records of the Kingdom of Majapahit in the 14th century also placed Kuala Terengganu, Paka and Dungun on their list of trading centres.

While the Indians and the Arabs traded and settled on the west coast, the sea-faring Khmers and Chinese were probably regular visitors to the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia for many centuries. From the 16th century onwards, the Chinese population increased gradually, and some established permanent communities.

It is believed that Admiral Cheng Ho of China - the Goodwill Ambassador of the Ming Dynasty - led a huge fleet of about 62 vessels with approximately 20,000 marine officers and crew to the shores of Kuala Terengganu in the 15th century. This is based on evidence from a map of places visited by Cheng Ho. Stories told by Chinese forefathers in Kuala Terengganu also reveal that a temple - Sam Po Kung - was built to remember Admiral Cheng Ho's visit.

This temple is situated near the bank of the Nerus river at Kampung Jeram which is about 25 kilometres from Kuala Terengganu. The discovery of two Chinese bronze drums (of the Dong So'n type) in Kuala Terengganu is further evidence of the contact between Kuala Terengganu and China in the olden days.

When Alexander Hamilton and Captain Joseph Jackson visited Kuala Terengganu in 1719-1720 and 1764 respectively, the presence of Chinese settlers was noted down in their records. The capital town of Kuala Terengganu was also described as follows by T.J. Newbold in 1893:

"... the Malay town of Terengganu in 1828 was large and populous .... The Chinese are numerous, and live principally in strong, brick-built houses, which now exhibit every appearance of an old and long established colony. The Chinese population of the town is estimated at 600, that of the Malays from 15,000 to 20,000".

Possible sea routes which ancestors of the Kuala Terengganu Chinese took to reach Kuala Terengganu and establish settlements there are shown on top while internal migration between Kampung Tirok and Kampung Cina in Kuala Terengganu is illustrated on the right. Of course, intra-migration between Kampung Tirok and other early Chinese settlements such as Wakaf Tapai, Pulau Bahagia and so forth, are also possible.

The Chinese settlers in Kuala Terengganu before 1900 were not homogeneous for they comprise of Hokkiens, Hainanese and Cantonese. According to Munshi Abdullah who visited Kuala Terengganu in 1836, there was a large Chinese quarter with a Kapitan Cina (Chinese leader) named Kapitan Lim Eng Huat (1798-1847), who was the second Kapitan of Chinatown. The Hokkien Chinese were the earliest and largest group of Chinese settlers at this Chinatown, and hence, the Hokkien dialect is commonly used by the Chinese community there.

By the mid-1800s, the Chinese population of Kuala Terengganu increased tremendously as new Chinese immigrants arrived. Kuala Terengganu, which is strategically located on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, was a natural stopping point for those who plied the trade route from China to South East Asia in the early days. Kampung Cina became the most densely populated area for the Chinese community in Kuala Terengganu.

Today, a stroll along Chinatown on Jalan Bandar (Bandar Road), Kuala Terengganu, feels like a step back into time. Two rows of 195 shophouses which date back to the late 1800s flank the road. One row of shophouses is built along the riverside on the right side of the mouth of Terengganu river. Many of these shophouses have extensions at the back facing the river. In the early days, the river was the essential mode of transport.

Some of these extensions date back to times when the riverside shophouses had back entrances and jetties for loading and unloading goods from boats. Today, at the back of some of these riverside shophouses are jetties where speedboats dock.

There is a hawkers' centre at the back of the other row of shophouses that sells various types of local food. An old well which dates back to more than a hundred years is also located nearby. It is known as the Low Tiey Well. During the early settlement days, the term Low Tiey signified both that of Chinese translator and Chinese community leader. The water in the well was used for drinking and washing. The well was also believed to have been excavated and constructed in 1875 by Low Tiey Lim Keng Hoon (1820-1882).

Chinatown has been acclaimed as a part of Malaysia's living history of shophouse architecture, revealing a spectrum of architecture from the earliest wooden and Baroque, to 1920s Art Deco and post-Modernism all on one street. Many of the Chinese in Chinatown are the descendants of the early settlers. Till today, signboards on shopfronts prove that many of these families still live here - namely the Wees, Lims, Tans, Teos and Phuahs.

Shophouse No. 177 of Jalan Bandar is the "generation" home of Madame Teo. The shophouse - Chop Teo Lian Hin - is today better known for its durian kuih (durian cake), pulut panggang (roasted glutinous rice) and keropok (fish crackers) which Madam Teo makes for sale. There are many more local delicacies such as paong (small bread), cimkuah (crab cake), and satay (sweetened roast meat) available for sale along this old Chinatown street. Restoran Sin Pin Siang (Ah Hong Coffee Shop) serves breakfast which includes a choice of the delicacies mentioned above. There are also several other reasonably-priced restaurants such as Restoran Chen Chen, Restoran Chan Wah Loi, Golden Dragon Restaurant, Restoran Ah Wah Chai, and Restoran Guan.

Further down the road and past the old brick bridge is shophouse No. 53. It is one of the earliest brick homes along Jalan Bandar, constructed by builders from China who were commissioned by (current house-owner) Dr Wee Tiong Wah's great-grandfather, Wee Beng Siang, a revenue farmer.

There is now a new budget hotel in Chinatown called Seri Malaysia and several tourist agencies such as Destinasi Unggul, Redang Pelangi Resort, Redang Bay Resort, Tosiesta Holidays, Rumpun Indera, Redang Reef Resort and Venture Holidays. There are also many shops - Batik Flaz, Ping Ancorage, and Teratai Arts and Crafts - that sell souvenirs ranging from batik cloths to antiques. Similar shops can be found at the Central Market.

Two very old Chinese temples - Ho Ann Kiong (1801) and Tien Hou Kong (1896) - are located in Chinatown. Other than being places of worship, the temples were also community centres for the Hokkiens and Hainanese respectively, and temporary shelters for the early immigrants.

North of Jalan Bandar is the Central Market - or Pasar Payang - where various fruits, vegetables, textiles, household goods and sundry items are displayed for sale. The atmosphere in Chinatown is one of familiarity and informality. Walking along it feels like a homecoming to the simple days of yesteryear. You may see old ladies in their sarongs sitting in front of their shophouses, fanning themselves and watching young children at play. Throughout Chinatown, the Chinese have integrated with the local Malays. They like wearing sarongs, eating Malay food and often speak in the thick Terengganu Malay dialect.

With Kampung Cina's potential as a tourist attraction, any in-fill development in the town should be in harmony with its existing structures in order to preserve the historical ambiance of Chinatown.

14th Century Islamic Inscriptions on Stone - Batu Bersurat

When Terengganu's famous Inscribed Stone (Batu Bersurat) was stumbled upon in 1887 at Padang Tara, a village on the bank of Sungai Tara in Kuala Berang, it was used as a platform for the washing of feet at the entrance to the Tuk Abdul Rashid mosque. For fifteen years, the stone functioned as such until a trader named Saiyed Hussin bin Ghulam Al-Bukhari revealed it to be the important symbol of Islam that it represents today.

The Inscribed Stone of Terengganu, besides having a rich and colourful history, is a profound statement on Terengganu's Islamic past. The Stone, which dates as far back as the early 14th century (702 Hijrah), is known to be the earliest piece of inscription in Malay using the Jawi script which states Islam as the official religion of the state along with an Islamic law guide pertaining to misdeeds and sanctions.

The Stone, which had broken away at the upper portion, was then placed on a raft for its journey downstream to Kuala Terengganu. There, it was presented to the Sultan of Terengganu, Sultan Zainal Abidin III, and subsequently took up an esteemed place on the famous and panoramic Bukit Puteri.

The Stone, with its wealth of inscriptions on its four faces, has since journeyed through Malaysia. In 1923, it was loaned to the Raffles Museum of Singapore before it took up its residence at the National Museum in Kuala Lumpur when building was completed. On July 6, 1991, the stone was returned to the Terengganu Government and the state.

It has been speculated from the differing styles of the inscriptions that more than one engraver was involved. Historians, however, are still debating on who the engravers were. Whether they were Arabs, or Malays, or even the Chinese (who were quite renowned for their chiseling and engraving skills), is still anybody's guess.

A twelve-tier black and white granite memorial now stands on the site where the Stone was discovered. The five pillars of Islam are symbolised by its first five tiers whilst the remaining seven represent the state's seven regions or districts.

While the original Stone is housed in the majestic Terengganu State Museum, a replica of the Stone stands atop this majestic memorial. The historical and religious appeal of the stone has brought in many anthropologists, Islamic researchers and tourists.

STATISTICS

Area	:	12,995 square km
State Capital	:	Kuala Terengganu
Royal Town	:	Kuala Terengganu
Administrative Divisions	:	7 Namely:- Besut, Dungun, Kemaman, Marang, Hulu Terengganu, Kuala Terengganu, Setiu
Population	:	879,691 (2000)
Breakdown of Races (1996)	:	Malay Chinese Indian Other	: : : :	859,402 42,970 4,355 3,238

Land area by District

District	Area (Hectares)	Percentage of Area
BESUT	123,367.8	9.52
DUNGUN	273,503.1	21.11
HULU TERENGGANU	387,462.6	29.91
KEMAMAN	253,559.9	19.57
KUALA TERENGGANU	60,528.1	4.67
MARANG	66,654.3	5.15
SETIU	130,436.3	10.07
Total	1,295,512.1

Population Estimate by Area

District	1970	1980	1991	2000
BESUT	79,197	104,076	107,900	120,538
DUNGUN	54,347	60,163	102,897	128,582
HULU TERENGGANU	33,660	44,861	56,986	62,262
KEMAMAN	44,724	66,798	111,901	136,502
KUALA TERENGGANU	173,304	239,927	274,489	298,149
MARANG	19,692	25,783	69,637	83,165
SETIU	-	-	42,434	50,493
Total	404,924	541,608	766,244	879,691

Agricultural Area (2000)

All Area is in Hectares - By Crop
District	Paddy	Rubber	Palm Oil	Cocoa	Coconut	Tobacco	Vegetables	Fruits
BESUT	9,370	13,214	6,304	-	1,088	835	6	9,625
DUNGUN	741	6,899	33,515	169	543	-	-	5,574
HULU TERENGGANU	4,368	16,637	16,545	50	446	-	27	6,759
KEMAMAN	545	11,439	74,245	-	862	13	15	4,834
KUALA TERENGGANU	8,536	9,119	2,229	41	1,997	-	-	6,478
MARANG	3,569	7,670	7,670	-	1,323	525	3	4,472
SETIU	2,300	16,037	15,932	-	532	213	-	7,415
Total	29,429	81,015	156,440	260	6,791	1,586	51	45,157

Population by Ethnic Group and Sex

Ethnic Group	Sex	1970	1980	1991	2000
Malay	Total	379,211	511,014	714,572	814,594
	Male	186,494	254,347	357,015	410,024
	Female	192,717	256,667	357,557	404,570
Chinese	Total	22,396	23,654	26,089	34,308
	Male	12,103	12,687	14,049	17,591
	Female	10,293	10,967	12,040	16,717
Indian	Total	2,144	2,487	2,665	4,398
	Male	1,121	1,241	1,615	2,500
	Female	1,023	1,246	1,050	1,898
Others (Citizens and non-citizens)	Total	1,173	4,453	22,918	26,391
	Male	984	2,574	14,838	15,822
	Female	189	1,879	8,080	10,569
Total	Total	404,924	541,608	766,244	879,691
	Male	200,702	270,849	387,517	445,937
	Female	204,222	270,759	378,727	433,754

 

Estimated Population by District, Ethnic Group and Sex (2000)

 

Ethnic Group/ Sex	BESUT	DUNGUN	HULU TERENGGANU	KEMAMAN	KUALA TERENGGANU	MARANG	SETIU	Total
Malay
Total	115,306	120,200	59,316	121,398	274,703	78,315	45,356	814,594
Male	58,367	60,874	29,983	61,559	137,247	38,919	23,075	410,024
Female	56,939	59,326	29,333	59,839	137,456	39,396	22,281	404,570
Chinese
Total	2,321	4,879	1,114	8,678	13,987	2,442	887	34,308
Male	1,223	2,515	602	4,414	7,147	1,222	468	17,591
Female	1,098	2,364	512	4,264	6,840	1,220	419	16,717
Indian
Total	254	379	145	1,578	1,358	263	421	4,398
Male	158	269	92	815	778	148	240	2,500
Female	96	110	53	763	580	115	181	1,898
Others (Citizens and non-citizens)
Total	2,657	3,124	1,687	4,848	8,101	2,145	3,829	26,391
Male	1,996	2,157	1,101	3,140	3,860	1,780	1,788	15,822
Female	661	967	586	1,708	4,241	365	2,041	10,569

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